The Middle East: A morsel of food can be a tool to divide

By Arooj Ashraf, La Prensa Correspondent

A morsel of food has the power to cease conflict, disarm personal barriers and share the cultural heritage of its cook. It is also can be used as a tool to divide.

Sharp inflation in food prices lit the flames of revolution that have engulfed many Middle Eastern nations from Tunisia, Egypt, Libya, Yemen, and Oman. “It was the last straw the broke the camel’s back,” said U.S. journalist Annia Ciezadlo at a lecture presented by Cleveland State University’s International Services on March 3, 2011.

The movements for equality, job opportunities, freedom were brewing for decades and the inability to buy even a simple meal spurred the masses to revolt. “It became a matter of dignity,” said Ciezadlo, adding the revolts are no surprise to those who had paid attention to the needs of common people.
 

Annia Ciezadlo

Ciezadlo penned the Day of Honey: A Memoir of Food, Love and War, to present a side of the Middle East absent in most coverage of the region. Married to a Lebanese-American journalist she moved with him to Baghdad, Iraq to cover war, and culture.

“I kept hearing: Iraq doesn’t have good food,” she said. This statement from fellow foreigners in Iraq mystified her and she made it a mission to discover the savory delicacies of Iraq – the birth place of agriculture. Ciezadlo found the mention of food repeatedly shocked her sources; they relaxed and shared perspectives they were reluctant to before.

“I asked people: ‘what should I eat?’ and discovered the soul of Iraq,” said Ciezadlo. Through food she also discovered a rich cultural history, myths that surround the cuisine and she often found herself frustrated with the lack of facts and details to collaborate the stories.  

Ciezadlo said through food she discovered a unique GPS system that more accurately describes ethnic and cultural boundaries than any map with arbitrary lines. Simple differences and similarities in food preparations, ingredients provided cues to its cook’s lineage, religious affiliation, economic status, even: “Who they did business with – like the Jews of Iraq who traveled to India to visit relatives and returned with spices.”

Saddam Hussein too was familiar with the power of food and used it as a propaganda tool to divide the rift between Shia and Sunni communities.

Repeatedly on the streets of Iraq she was told to try Masquf, a simple roasted fish, its ethnic origin shrouded in mystery. Each ethnic group, Muslim, Jew or Christian claimed it to be of the other but all revered its place in Iraqi cuisine. “It represented the flavor of freedom,” said Ciezadlo, a time before Hussein’s regime when all races, creeds and genders mingled peacefully.

The book also shares the culinary experiences of Beirut, Lebanon and Ciezadlo found surprising contradictions between the countries’ international persona and reality. “Lebanon presents itself as a country that is happy, friendly, and liberal with flourishing night clubs but there were issues beneath the surface people were not talking about,” she said. The fifteen year civil war in Lebanon isolate neighborhoods and the post war country the size of Rhode Island lives in a collective willed amnesia.
 

“People cannot tell you where they live,” said Ciezadlo, the street names are irrelevant because the people navigate the city by pre-war landmark often that no longer exist.

Bakeries within each neighborhood became important neurocenters during the war and still play an important role. Ciezadlo said bakeries are barometers of politic tension or conflict; the first signs of political tension or conflict and people stock up on beard supplies for fear they may have to do without.

Guests attending the lecture had the opportunity to sample delicious sandwiches, and desserts at Trinity Commons. Amina Mohammed, a senior at Cleveland State University said Ciezadlo’s comments intrigued her and she feels more motivated to enjoy other ethnic cuisines. Born in Nigeria she has lived in Cleveland area for the past decade and wishes there were more African restaurants offering authentic food.

Ciezadlo said food carries memories and comfort and while traveling she craved the simplest flavors like doughnuts. When she would return to New York, “Sometimes you just want good Mexican food.” Born in Chicago, she was raised in Indiana and said if her friends from the Middle East were invited to dinner and she shared with them authentic U.S. food it would be grits or hamburgers.

The title of her book is derived from an Arabic proverb – day of honey, and day of onions which encourages optimism and gratitude for good days and patience during bad. Ciezadlo’s book encourages reader to look at the value of food for more than mere nourishment but also savor it for the lessons and opportunities.

Editor’s Note: According to www.anniaciezadlo.com, “Annia Ciezadlo was a special correspondent for The Christian Science Monitor in Baghdad and The New Republic in Beirut. She has written about culture, politics, and the Middle East for The Nation, Saveur, The Washington Post, The New York Times, The New York Observer, and Lebanon’s Daily Star. Her article about cooking with Iraqi refugees in Beirut was included in Best Food Writing 2009.”

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